Italian style hasn’t expired yet, according to Dolce&Gabbana. For Spring Summer 2025, the house insists we shouldn’t be overwhelmed by modernity and, instead, look for answers in the beauty of its history.
Italy once defined fashion before it became old. With inventions, such as stilettos for women and ankle-baring pants for men, now bordering along the disapproval of internet-defined trends, it’s been harder to discern their place in fashion — especially when others have lampooned their outdatedness in light of younger designers in even younger cities. But, of course, that statement comes with certain exceptions. Because there’s still one thing that Italy, or rather the city of Milan, gets right all the time: Romance; the kind that’s been in their films; defines their spoken language; that rare persuasion from a culture to simply look at beauty.
So when Dolce&Gabanna — one of the truest Italian houses out there — titles a men’s collection Italian Beauty, they’re neither addressing the cheap satin sets nor sartorial office attires that’s plagued its street senses for a decade now, they’re looking for answers within its old, unruffled charm. Specifically, the moments of its fashion history that have been impassive to global influence and doom-scrolling gimmicks. It’s a heck of a statement, considering that just not too long ago, it was exactly these things that felt like a necessity for survival as the house came face to face with its relevancy.
Thus, don’t mistake the design duo’s Spring Summer 2025 collection as a way to evade what people may think of the house either. Rather, it’s about changing things so slightly that it can only result in good taste. It’s about paying attention to what matters and taking on as many new effects as one would have new ideas such as transforming its Majolica print into a neatly shaped fine lace that’s indistinguishable at first glance to its evolution as coloured crystal embroideries on suits, and its eventual removal in view of more minimalist shapes (like bold asymmetrical stripes) to anchor the collection.
And that trickles down even to its silhouettes. The new season looks towards dressing like one would in old Italy, such as the country’s most idyllic spots, like Sicily and Naples. That means less sharp, rigid tailoring and more relaxed, sailor-like peak lapels. That means more knits, crochet sets, and wide shorts. These are significant moves for Dolce&Gabbana, no matter how small its intended intention may be. Because the house has never been able to move beyond its capacity as a tailoring expert imbued with in-your-face, hardcore sensuality.
But with the growing interest in embodying Dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) all over social media, it feels natural that even a house like Dolce&Gabbana would do so right as to be less high-strung, and more passive in its tone. That is the true beauty, and with an industry dying for the need to impress, it’s one that is hard to admit.
To see the #DGFamily who attended the show, click here. The Spring Summer 2025 Men’s Milan Fashion Week coverage continues on our Instagram.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our May 2024 issue.
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