Regardless of the level of water resistance, here’s one watch across five depths to look good this summer.
As another season of sun beckons, here’s our top picks for a horological companion this summer — across different water resistance levels (from 30m, 100m, 200m, 300m and 500m and beyond) and occasions.
30 Metres: Cartier Privé Tortue
Each year, Cartier’s Privé collection is one that the horological world eagerly anticipates — the maison unveils a limited-release revival of some of its most iconic designs across the previous century annually, such as the cult-favourite Crash and the Tank Cintrée. This year, Cartier’s Privé collection re-release takes the form of the refreshed Tortue. As its name suggests, the watch derives its case shape from that of a turtle (‘tortue’ is French for turtle), and is the third wristwatch after the Santos-Dumont and Tonneau that Louis Cartier designed, in 1912. Given the timepiece is more horological work of art than tool watch, it’s definitely not meant for a dip in the pool — one imagines it would look better on the wrist while dining by the seaside on the French Riviera.
100 Metres: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
With the sports watch with integrated bracelet trend not dying out anytime soon, Vacheron Constantin taps into the recently popularised green dial on pink gold combination for its adventure ready Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection. While several complications span the newly released pieces, none embodies summer holiday more so than the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time. Its dual time zone and day-night indicator complications allow the jetsetter to view home and local time in style be it by a sunkissed beach or bustling concrete jungle. Keeping in line with the sports watch theme, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is rated to 150m water resistance, allowing one to wear it for quick dips in the pool or acting as insurance against a sudden downpour. Two other leather and rubber straps in a dial-matching green shade accompany the watch should one wish to switch out the 18K 5N pink gold bracelet.
200 Metres: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
While most of the horological world anticipated the release of a red-and-black ‘Coke’ bezel on its big brother’s reference, Tudor instead surprised everybody, incorporating the cult-favourite colourway with its beloved Black Bay 58 and a GMT movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders (much to our delight). That being said, the ‘Coke’ bezel is just the icing on the cake. Coupled with the slightly reduced 39mm case size and COSC-certified GMT movement, the product is a Black Bay that possesses a more pronounced vintage look and feel, but that nevertheless retains everything that contemporary Tudor is fêted for. Given the GMT movement on the Black Bay, its inclusion on this list is only logical — it makes the watch perfect for travel, especially across time zones. Finished with golden gilt touches on the 24-hour bezel, hour markers, and hands that are reminiscent of warm sunsets, the Black Bay 58 GMT combines a timeless, vintage summer aesthetic with peak travel functionality.
300 Metres: Tissot Seastar
As far as tool watches go, there exist few manufactures that embody the values of resilience and ruggedness the way that Tissot does. Within the manufacture’s collection, none encapsulates the robust nature of Tissot’s timepieces than the Seastar, having been the timepiece of choice for many mountaineers and divers across its substantial history. Today, the Seastar still honours the ruggedness of its predecessors, whilst incorporating a sense of free-spirited, adventurous fun. In an extension of its Seastar 40mm line, five new models have been released, with the workhorse 80-hour power reserve Powermatic 80 movement at their ticking hearts. In terms of dial colours, Tissot’s offerings combine elements of sophistication with fun — the author’s favourite being the turquoise-dial ref. T120.807.11.091.00. A colour that conjures mental images of glistening Swiss lakes in the shadow of the Alps, the Seastar 40mm combines a rich, adventure-accented heritage with the soft, relaxed fun of a Swiss summer.
500 Metres: Zenith DEFY Revival A3648
Zenith is blessed with a rich archive that acts as a near-bottomless well of inspiration, and they know it. From the re-release of classics such as the Chronomaster Original, to incorporating details from neo-vintage icons like the Rainbow Flyback, the Le Locle manufacture’s continued derivation of inspiration from its historical catalogue has reaped handsome rewards. The latest to get the Zenith revival treatment is the Zenith DEFY Revival A3648 — also the first vintage Zenith diver to experience it. The Revival A3648 retains plenty from its storied vintage predecessor — purists will be glad to note that the 600m depth rating, octagonal case shape and fourteen-sided bezel all return, as does the signature, bright orange-and-black dial and bezel. While the sharp angles of the case and bezel mark this as more a sophisticated embodiment of ruggedness than an expression of pure horological fun, the bright orange on the dial and bezel means this timepiece has a place on the wrist, beach- or pool-side with an ice-cold cup of exotic fruit juice on a side table.
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